Craft Archives - Homemade Toast

“I Like to Look for Rainbows” Pallet Nail Art Tutorial

May 9, 2014 by homemadetoast 4 Comments

Last fall, one of our closest family friend’s daughter turned 8. In the LDS church, this is a fun year and a big deal because it is the year that the children can choose to be baptized. There is this cute little song that the kids sing called When I am Baptized, more commonly known as “I like to look for rainbows” by its first line. Since E was having a rainbow-themed birthday, I knew I wanted to make her something special that tied in the song. I ended up making this huge pallet nail art sign with a fun combo of texture and color!

Here is how I made the sign:

First, I took some old pallet wood and cut pieces about 30-inches long. I arranged them the way I liked, then lightly sanded the top. My final piece was just over 20-inches high.

I secured them together by nailing 3 thin strips of wood to the back.

Then, I stained the wood a dark walnut color…

…and painted on a lopsided rainbow. After the paint was dry I lightly sanded over it to give it a little more “wear.”

Then, I spray pained some nails a dark brown color – so they wouldn’t stand out so much against the dark wood. They were only half-covered, but it did the trick!

I printed out the word rainbows in the size and font I wanted and arranged it on the board.

Next, I lightly hammered a nail about every 1/3-inch along the perimeter of each letter. You will want to nail it in enough so that they are in there pretty securely, but so the majority of the nail is still sticking out. You can see that there are some spots along the seams of the wood that are bare – (like the bottom third of the ‘w’ and ‘s’). I was able to fill in some spots after the paper was removed, and some I just left alone – after the string was added you couldn’t even tell!…

DIY Contoured Maternity Pillow

May 7, 2014 by homemadetoast 7 Comments

I’ve had the itch to come back to this little blog for a few months now. It has actually been a tougher decision to make than I would have expected. Literally, the day before my water blob tutorial went viral my husband and I decided that it would be worth it to try out again.

It’s not that I think the post’s success was a “sign” or anything – but it definitely gave me the confidence to come back, knowing that it would be worth my time in the end. I had originally planned to come back after baby comes in June, having a handful of posts ready on the back burner and a well-planned and organized schedule to follow – but I just can’t pass up the opportunity to post with all of you new visitors every day! So, for now it will be a little chaotic and disorganized but I am excited to be back and sharing what I love to do with you guys!

Now, let’s talk about that baby.

So I’m due at the end of June. And it’s only the beginning of May. Who KNEW you could even be so uncomfortable!? Maybe my I forgot what it was like near the end of my other two pregnancies, but I really don’t think it was ever this bad. And I still have 7 weeks left. Oy.

About a month ago when the insomnia started really setting in, I decided to make this obnoxiously over-sized pillow to see if it would help at all – mostly, because I am cheap and didn’t want to spend $80 on something that I wasn’t sure I would even use. Ohmygosh. I really don’t know how I made it through TWO whole pregnancies without one!

Literally, a cotton-stuffed miracle, people.

The pros. Since your back, belly, and hips are all supported and aligned – you’ll sleep like a champ.

The cons. Since this thing is over 4 feet long and nearly 3 feet wide, you’ll be taking up a good portion of the bed. But let’s be honest… you were doing that before the pillow, anyway. Also, those six times you get up to pee in the middle of the night? Mini wrestling match vs. maternity pillow. As long as your bladder is willing to give you 15 extra seconds, you’ll win – most likely.

If you don’t have the time or energy (or fabric hoarding tendencies that you need to prove to your husband are necessary by making AND finishing a project with something from your stash.. what?) to make one for yourself – it would be still be worth every single penny of that $80 to just order online! So follow this here tutorial to make one, or order this one that I used as my inspiration. (affiliate link)

Kay. Here we go.

I’ve got you a free PDF Pattern – for Homemade Toast stalkers only, please. Follow on facebook, Pinterest or Instagram to return the love!

Here’s the deal. It comes in two sizes: regular and tall. I originally made myself what is now the “regular” size… and wish I had just an inch or two more length on it (it still fits totally comfortably and fine as-is, but anyone taller than me may want the extra length for sure)… thus the creation of the tall size. I’m about 5’7″, so if you are taller than me – make the tall size.

And, one more disclaimer before we start. Originally, I had planned to make a liner and a cover for my pillow, both using an identical pattern. I got a little too impatient and excited after I had finished what I intended to be my cover and just ended up stuffing it as-is. Because I stuffed it so firm and with cheap stuffing, after a few weeks of use the stuffing has started to just barely poke out of the fabric, making it kind of itchy. So… my advice would be to either use a thicker, nicer fabric than just a plain cotton like I did (minky would be a DREAM!), make a liner AND a cover, use a better-quality stuffing, or just be prepared to lay a soft blanket over your pillow like I do!

Here’s what you’ll need:

Contoured Maternity Pillow PDF Pattern (print, cut out, and piece together by overlapping grey sections)
(two) 50-inch (or 54-inch for the tall pattern!) x 30-inch pieces of fabric A
(six) 3-inch x 40-inch (44-inch for tall!) strips of coordinating fabric B (optional – to give it a little more height)
(two) 2-inch x 25-inch strips of fabric B (optional)
(one) 24-inch (+/-) zipper (optional)
stuffing (I used the stuffing from 4 “huge” pillows to make a VERY firm pillow – ripping open pillows is usually cheaper than buying bags of stuffing!)

Part One: Cutting out the “Contoured” Pattern

1. Lay out your big 50×30-inch (or 54×30-inch for tall!) rectangles. Fold into quarters so that all of the corners meet.

2. Use a large bowl (or good judgement) to round all four corners of both pieces.

…

Sea Salt Scrub

August 1, 2013 by homemadetoast 8 Comments

As part of this week’s “Sink or Swim” party giveaway, the bloggers participating are all bringing you ideas to host your own Sink or Swim summer party! We kind of ran with the idea of nautical & beach-themed, and I think you’ll love what everyone came up with!

Artsy Fartsy Mama: Printable Nautical Thank You Cards

Cupcake Diaries: Cookie Oysters

Not Picture Perfect: Summer Party Games

Events to Celebrate: Decorations for a Swim & Splash Party

Dessert Now Dinner Later: Blueberries & Cream Pie Parfaits

Homemade Toast: Sea Salt Scrub

The Bucket List Girl: Tillamook Ice Cream Sandwich

Clarks Condensed: Summer Fruit Cobbler

Like Mother Like Daughter: 7 Layer Dip

Our Thrifty Ideas: Party Pleasing Potato Salad

Rae Gun Ramblings: Mermaid Cookie Pops

Scroll down to the bottom of this post to enter the giveaway, if you haven’t already!

Due to my little soap-making escapade a few months ago, I started running up a collection of oils and butters that have been put to good use making homemade lotion bars, lip balm, sunscreen and bug spray. Its been so fun for me to make things for my family that are completely all-natural and organic. Don’t get me wrong, my recent posts may indicate that I’ve gone all-hippie. But really, I just enjoy creating – especially if it happens to be that whatever it is I am making is better and safer for my girls.

A few weeks ago we stopped in Vegas on our drive home from California. We were walking through the Venetian and were given a sample of this amazing sea salt scrub while walking past some of the shops. I wish that I had caught the name of the place – the product was really outstanding. I remember the girl who gave us the sample told us that there was beeswax and shea butter in it – which turned on a little lightbulb in my head. I could make this!

And so I did!

Not even kidding – my hands have never felt softer. The sea salt is just abrasive enough to scratch away dead skin and leave your hands so incredibly smooth and the small amount of beeswax helps your skin absorb and retain the moisture of the oils and butters. My husband literally refuses to use it because it makes his manly dry callused hands feel too girly! Men.

Wouldn’t these make the perfect party favors? A great way to send something thoughtful and homemade home with your guests a step-up from a trinket that will end up at the bottom of the toy bin.

…

the 3-Minute Mouse-Pad

February 6, 2013 by homemadetoast 1 Comment

As a graphic-designer-by-day, I use a huge mouse-pad so that I have enough room to move my mouse around the screen freely. I have used the same one for a few years now – and it was getting nasty.

I found a few tutorials on Pinterest for mouse-pad recovers that suggested Mod Podging fabric to your existing mouse-pad. I was a little worried that the Mod Podge would have left me with a stiff, inconsistent texture – but I was ready to give it a try, hoping for the best.

Sponge brush in hand, I glanced over at some Wonder Under (an iron-on fusible webbing) laying out on my desk that I had out from working on some shoes for my Etsy shop. At that moment, I’m pretty sure I visualized a cartoon light bulb floating over my head.

The rest is history.

How cute is this? Ironing the fabric to the mouse-pad with Wonder Under was so much faster than using Mod Podge would have been. And even better, the texture and flexibility is perfect.

What you’ll need:
fabric
Wonder Under (iron-on fusible webbing)
an old mouse pad
a hot iron

First, cut out a piece of Wonder Under slightly bigger than your mouse-pad. And, your fabric just a little bigger than that.

Iron the Wonder Under to your fabric. Let it cool, peel off the paper backing, then iron to your mousepad.

Trim the edges.

If you think that the fabric may fray – treat the edges with a little Fray Check.

Done.

TOMS-inspired Baby and Toddler Shoes – Free Pattern and Tutorial

December 11, 2012 by homemadetoast 170 Comments

Stay updated with more tutorials and recipes from Toast on Pinterest and Facebook!

I’ll just let the pictures do the talking here…

Love.

These shoes are adorable, comfortable and STAY on.

The little velcro strap keeps baby’s foot snug inside.

I am obsessed with those little tags. Characteristic of those cute little TOMS, yet personal to the little toes inside.

Want to make a pair for an itty baby? Add a little elastic to the back, sew the middle strap down – easy peasy.

And, best of all – they are made by you. (Or me.)

I’ll show you how…

First, download a pattern:

FREE General Baby Pattern (PDF)
-or-
Instant Download Baby Pattern – $4.50
includes: newborn, 0-3, 3-6, 6-12, 12-18, 18-24 month sizes & sizing chart

FREE General Toddler Pattern (PDF)
-or-
Instant Download Toddler Pattern – $4.50
includes: US children’s size 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 & sizing chart

If you choose to download a generic pattern, make sure you scale it to the size you need. You will want the sole piece of the pattern to be approximately 1 inch longer than the feet you are making them for. This will allow room for seam allowance, plus a little wiggle room for comfort and growth.

Also, one more suggestion: make both of your shoes at the same time, assembly-line style. Because these shoes are so tiny, it’s important that your seam allowance is exactly the same for both shoes. If you make one shoe, and then the other – you risk slight differences, which could add up and result in a difference in size.

Here we go!

1. Cut out the pattern.

First, cut out all of your pieces, as listed on the pattern.

This photo shows the pieces needed for the toddler pattern. If you are making the baby pattern, the center strap is made of one folded piece, not two separate pieces.

Also, the back is slightly different. The toddler pattern has a curved piece, with a rectangle-shaped lining (to be trimmed later). The baby pattern is made of two curved pieces.

For the soles of these shoes, I like to use two layers. (I use a rubber-dotted grippy fabric for shoes made for walkers.) But, you could use only one layer, or even three if you wanted. I find it easiest to fuse them together with wonder under – that way I am only essentially dealing with one layer of fabric.

Also, I would definitely suggest fusing the center pieces with interfacing. It will help keep the fabric in place, and prevent fraying when you cut the slit that will be folded out to encase the elastic. For the toddler shoes, I also like to use interfacing on the outside back, and heel pieces – just to give the heel a very clean look. Do NOT use interfacing on the toe pieces. They need to be very flexible!

You will also need your tags & elastic.

I use 3/4″ to 1″ elastic cut in a similar shape to the heel piece – edges cut at a slight angle. I usually use a piece about 1 1/4″ on the longest side for the toddler shoe, and 1″ for the baby shoe.

I make these tags with a printable iron-on transfer paper and 5/8″ ribbon. If you have the supplies to make these, its fairly cheap to make them yourself. If not, the transfer paper, ribbon, and elastic is going to put you upwards of $20.

Or, I have this set of customized tags available in my Etsy shop. It includes a set of three tags (one extra set, just in case) and 4-inches of 1″ elastic.

2. Sew the back of the shoe.

One of the main differences between the toddler and baby shoe is the back. The toddler shoe has a flat back, and the baby shoe has an elastic back. The toddler shoes are shown in the grey/floral photos, baby in mustard/grey dots. You can click on any of the photos to enlarge.

Toddler Shoe

With right sides together, sew along the straight edge with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Iron, pressing the lining fabric flat, the outside fabric creased.

Fold the outside fabric over the lining, and press again.

Sew along the top edge.

Baby Shoe

With right sides together, sew along the straight edge with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Iron seam open.

Fold in half, press.

3. Sew on back tag. (Same for toddler and baby)

Press the sides of the heel fabric under. Place it upside-down (long side up) with right sides together so that the tag is placed in the center and about 1/3 of the way down the back curved piece.

Sew along the top of the tag piece, about 1/4-inch in. Separate the lining from the outside fabric so that you are only sewing through the outside layer. (Enlarge the picture, it will make better sense.)

Then, press the tag down, and sew along the sides and top (still only on the outside layer).

Next, either trim your tag to size and treat with fray check, or fold the sides under. Center over the heel piece and sew in place. (I like to use a longer stitch length on the tag to give it more of a “hand-sewn” look.

Remember you are going to loose about 1/4-inch in seam allowance from the bottom, so place the tag high on the heel.

4. Sew encasing for elastic. (Baby shoe only)

Sew along the top of the back piece, just over 1/4” in. Pull 1/4″ elastic through, enough so that the ends stick out when flat.

5. Sew the center strap.

Cut along the line as indicated by the pattern, and fold toward the wrong side of the fabric to create a triangle shape. Press well.

With right sides together, align the center pieces making sure that the triangles line up well.

For the toddler shoe, sew around the top, short side, and bottom of the of the strap. Do not back-stitch on top edge, the stitch is just to baste for now. Clip the corners on the short end.

For the baby shoe, you only need to sew along the top. Do not stitch along the short side and folded edge.

Turn right-side-out and press all edges very well. Use a seam ripper to open the stitches as shown.

Insert in elastic and the small tag near the edge of the short side (fold in half & trim). I totally forgot to add the little tag as I was making these. Hopefully these make-shift illustrations will explain how to put it in.

Toddler Shoe

Sew along the top, small side and bottom edges. I like to do a double stitch on the top.

Baby Shoe

Sew along the top edges, placing the tag about a 1/2 inch away from the edge. Meet the toe piece with the center, and overlap 1/8″-1/4″ and sew together on outer edges, with the center piece on top.

6. Baste the toe. (Same for toddler and baby)

Following the guides (the dotted lines) on the pattern, baste the toe pleats as shown. The little notches at the end of the toe should line up so that the resulting piece is a smooth curve.

The pleats should point toward each other on the back side of the piece, but they do not touch. Make sure that the pleats run parallel to each other, and do not angle outward. (This is the same for the baby shoe, it has just already been attached to the toe.)

Toddler Shoe

Attach the center strap to the toe by placing the two pieces together and overlapping by 1/8″-1/4“ with the center strap in front. Sew along the same stitch line on the outer edge of the center piece as you made before. Stitch 1/3-1/2 way into the length of the center strap.

Here’s what it will look like in front:

And in back…

7. Size the back pieces. (Same for toddler and baby)

Before attaching the back and front, lay our your pieces to make sure that they are paired correctly.

Trim the back pieces along the curved edge, so that all of the edges align.

The pattern allows for the back pieces to be trimmed to fit the shoe perfectly. I did not create these to be exact – because any deviation in seam allowance could result in an incorrect fitting.

To size the back piece, place the top piece on the sole, pleats aligning to the pattern. Pin the center in place.

Then, carefully pin the pieces to the sole, aligning edges.

Attach the back piece, by first centering the heel to the back and following the edges around until the sides meet. (Don’t worry about pinning the back piece on.) Pin in place to the front.

**Attach back of the toddler shoe to the TOE piece on the outer side of the shoe (so that the strap can move). Attach back of the baby shoe to the CENTER piece outer side of the shoe.**

Now, unpin the front from the sole, so that the front and back are still attached.

Trim the sides of back piece so that they overlap the front by 1/4-1/2″.

Zigzag stitch the trimmed edge to prevent fraying.

Baby Shoe

For the baby shoe, trim the edges very carefully, making sure that the elastic lays flat inside. Zig-zag stitch one side, and straight stitch over the elastic just for reinforcement.

Pull the elastic through the other end about 1-inch (give or take, depending on how stretchy you want it to be).

Then stitch in place.

8. Attach the back to the front. (Same for toddler and baby)

First, on the large end of the center strap, stitch the back to the front, along the same two lines already sewn.

Back view:

Now, attach the back to the other side with two straight lines.

**Sew back of the toddler shoe to the TOE piece. Sew the back of the baby shoe to the CENTER piece.**

9. Attach the velcro. (Toddler shoe only)

Toddler Shoe

Before attaching the toddler shoe to the sole, add the velcro for the strap.

First, sew one side of the velcro to the end of the strap.

Then, attach the other to the side of the shoe, trimming the velcro to align with the seam.

10. Attach the top to the sole. (Same for toddler and baby)

With the right side of the top of the shoe facing the outside of the sole, carefully pin together, matching the pleats with the pattern and centering the tag in the back.

Sew around the entire edge, reinforcing the seams and pleats. If you are working with a small shoe, you may need to sew around in 3-4 segments, replacing and repinning each time.

If you would like, cut out a lining to the shoe out of a thick material. Use the sole pattern as your guide, cutting in about 1/4-inch. (I used a fuzzy/pleather here.) This will add a little more padding to the bottom, and also allow room to grown

That’s it! Turn your shoes right-side out and put them on some cute little feet!

Cinderella and Belle Princess Dress – Costume Pattern and Tutorial

October 20, 2012 by homemadetoast 28 Comments

Continue to the Belle Dress Tutorial

Continue to the Cinderella Dress Tutorial

It’s real. You’ll notice a few new changes here at Homemade Toast. (1) I am officially a domain owner. Horray! (2) I attempted to re-design. Not what I anticipated, and still working out the kinks – but I am learning and having fun along the way. (3) I’m going CRAFT!

Yup. It’s time.

One of the things that I have loved about Homemade Toast is how it has pushed me to try new things, new recipes, new ingredients, new hobbies. Cooking is something that I love to do, and also something that I love to share. (If only I could share the pounds too, can that be a thing?)

I am so excited to take Homemade Toast to the next level, and start sharing even more of what I love. I will still continue to post recipes, but you will also start seeing tutorials for DIY projects and crafts here at the blog (now sans .blogspot!). I hope that this new change will continue to push me to try and make new things, serve as a creative outlet, and hopefully – inspire others to create as well!

So, to kick things off – I thought I would post a tutorial for these cute little Cinderella and Belle dresses.

Meet my loves: Kyah (Cinderella) and Hannah (Belle).

They are sisters, best friends…. and princesses.

Like most little girls they are in love with anything princess. Particularly, princess dresses.

We have such an obsession with princess dresses in our home that Daddy finally instituted “Princess Hour.” The girls have one hour to wear whatever princess dress they want, their crowns, their magic wands, their plastic high-heels. Sometimes they even get to wear lipstick and blush.

When the hour is through, the idea is that they will change back into their play clothes and put their princess clothes away. We are trying to get through this phase without tears, but it has yet to be perfected. We’re working on it.

So, it came to no surprise that Kyah insisted on being Cinderella for Halloween.

Hannah just wanted to be a princess like her big sister, and I just love her dark skin in yellow – so I subtly convinced her to be Belle. Didn’t take much.

I first went to the fabric store – looking for a pattern that I could adjust to what I had in mind. I didn’t really find anything I loved, and I wasn’t excited about spending $8 on a pattern I didn’t like.

So, I decided to make my own.

My number one priority was for the dresses to be comfortable. My little sillies like to dance and sing and wiggle and run. Their dresses needed to be able to do those things, too.

I thought about using a stretchy knit at first – but I loved the idea of using shirring pieces to add flexibility to the dresses. Knit fabric just doesn’t have the same princess appeal as shiny and sparkly fabric does.

Needless to say, the girls LOVE their princess dresses. Although, I think the best reward came when I showed Kyah her dress for the first time. Her eyes lit up. But, before she ran to her new dress – she ran to me, gave me a hug and said “I love it so much Mommy!” Can’t beat that.

Halloween is less than 2 weeks away! But there is still time. Promise, your little princess will go nuts over their handmade dress. And, who says they even need it for Halloween? Princess are princess anytime of the year – at our house, most of the year!

Both the Cinderella dress and Belle dress are so different and unique – but they both have one thing in common – the shirred bodice. The shirred bodice is what makes the dresses so comfortable – so my little princess can dance and play just like princesses should.

I love the way the Cinderella dress flows, and how the little hip poofs (yes.) are actually poofy. It adds so much dimension to the dress, and is a distinguishing characteristic of the classic Cinderella dress.

And then there is the Belle dress. I was a little hesitant at first, using so much fabric – but it is surprisingly light weight and so comfy and soft, not to mention those ruffles are to die for on pretty little girl!

These are my first ever tutorials – I am learning and apologize in advance for any mistakes that you may find. If you have any questions about a tutorial or pattern – please comment or contact me directly through the link at the top of the page and I will answer as soon as possible.

Also, please excuse my well-loved cutting mat. If you have a princess in your life, I’m sure you understand. 🙂

Continue to the Belle Dress Tutorial

Continue to the Cinderella Dress Tutorial

Belle Princess Dress – Costume Pattern and Tutorial

October 20, 2012 by homemadetoast 14 Comments

Little Hannah was coaxed into being Belle for Halloween this year when her big sister insisted on being Cinderella. Hannah loves to be like her big sister, and wanted to be a princess as well. I just couldn’t resist dressing up that pretty Armenian skin she inherited from daddy with yellow and gold – so I decided to make her a little Belle dress. mMMmm.

I set out to make these dresses with a vision in mind, but had no idea they would turn out so dang cute – especially with a cute little girl to match!

But really, I am seriously in love with this dress. It is so beautiful with all of its pretty ruffles – and really, quite simple to make. The secret to all of those ruffles: fabric. Lots, and lots, and lots of fabric. This 13-inch long skirt used 2 yards. But, so worth it!

Surprisingly, even with all of the fabric, this dress is so comfy and flexible – the shirring lets little Hannah dance and play just like a princess should.

Want to make a Cinderella dress too?

Both the Cinderella and Belle dresses begin with the same shirred bodice – so, you’ll notice that the photos in the first few sections are shown using the Cinderella dress. Just use the fabric in the color you need for your dress!

Bodice Pattern

First, we need to create our bodice pattern. You can use mine, adjusting to the size you will need, or create your own.

To create your own – find a shirt, or dress that fits your princess well. Lay it out on a piece of paper – and mark at these six points.

Then, connect the dots – and fold at the two center points.

Fold in half and cut around the pattern. Cut two pattern pieces – one for the front, one for the back.

For the back, draw a horizontal line at the bottom of the neck line (1), then draw two vertical lines separating the bodice into thirds, approximately (2). Then, connect the intersection of those two lines diagonally to the inner shoulder (3).

Cut along the vertical and diagonal lines, like this.

Now, for the front. This time, draw a horizontal line 1-2 inches lower than the neck line, and a diagonal line connecting the inner shoulder to the bottom of the bodice. Just eyeball it – whatever looks good to you.

Cut along both of the lines.

After I created my pattern, I decided that I wanted the bodice to be a little bit shorter – hitting at high waist. I ended up cutting a few inches off the bottom of my pattern. Make sure that you measure your pattern and adjust it how you would like.

Pattern done. Now, let’s start sewing.

Bodice Sides

Use your pattern to cut out the bodice pieces. You will need two pieces (opposite of each other) of both your front and lining fabric, so – 4 pieces total. I used the same fabric for both.

If you created your own pattern, place the side “seams” together to create one piece, like this – and cut about ¼-½ inch outside for seam allowance.

If you are using my pattern, the seam allowance has already been added – just cut on the dotted line. (The outside line for Cinderella dress, inside line for Belle)

Now – finally time to turn on the machine! With right sides facing, fold each piece in half and stitch or serge the at the shoulder seam.

Shirring

Next, you’ll make your bodice middle pieces by shirring a long rectangle of fabric using rows and rows of stitched elastic thread. These pieces will be what allow the dress to be so comfortable – by allowing it to move and stretch easily.

Take both your back middle and front middle pattern pieces and lay them side-by-side, with a little bit of wiggle room in between. Cut a rectangle of fabric equivalent to their height, plus two inches, and three times their width. (If you are using a very thin fabric – use up to four times their width.)

For example, for the 2T pattern – the pieces are about 8.5 inches high, and 9 inches wide side-by-side. So, I cut a piece of fabric 10.5 inches high, and 27 inches wide.

Start by hemming the fabric across its length. I serged the edge, but you could also use a zig-zag stitch.

Now, the fun part begins – wind your elastic thread into an empty bobbin. I know many people do this by hand, but I like to use my machine to help me out. I hold the elastic thread on a pencil, and guide the tension and direction by hand while my machine spins the bobbin. Make sure you don’t wind it too tight, though – you want a little bit of tension left in the thread.

Pop the elastic thread in your machine and run a manual stitch through so that you can pull the elastic thread up through the bottom. Set your machine to its longest stitch length. Iron the hemmed edge of the fabric back about ½ in, and sew your first row, hem side down – about a ¼ inch from the top, so it looks similar to this…

Sew the second row with the hemmed edge folded out, just so you don’t accidentally stitch over it again, about 1/4 – 1/3 inch under the first row.

Here’s what the back will look like after the second row.

Continue to sew rows of elastic thread down the entire piece of fabric. After the 5^th-6^th row the fabric will really start bunching – make sure you gently stretch the fabric from both the front and back, so that it feeds flat under the foot. Don’t worry if your rows vary a bit in distance – you’ll never know once you’re done!

Once the entire piece has been stitched (whew!), use your iron to steam the elastic thread. Rather than ironing back and forth, just lightly press the iron down on the fabric, giving it a good amount of steam as you go. The steam will help the elastic to shrink up and give it even more stretch.

Attaching the Bodice Front

Now you will attach the bodice sides to the middle sections. First, you will attach the front middle. Place a piece of tissue paper (I used two sheets), or a tear-away stabilizer to the back side of the shirred fabric, then place the pattern for the front middle bodice section on top, aligning both top edges (the wide end of the pattern to the hemmed edge of the shirred fabric.) This is to ensure that your nice diagonal line stays diagonal, and doesn’t get stretched out of position.

Straight stitch around the pattern, through both the tissue and fabric with about ¼ inch seam allowance (same if you are using my pattern or your own). Then, trim around your stitch, about another ¼ inch out.

Match up your bodice side pieces so that the left front and left lining pieces match up, as well as the right front and right lining pieces. Remember, both the lining and front pieces will meet up with either wrong sides together, or right sides together.

Take one side – doesn’t matter which, and lay out your lining fabric right side up. Place your middle bodice section along the front edge (the diagonal side) right side up, lining up the edges.

Then, take your matching front piece, and lay it right side down on top of both pieces, matching up the diagonal edge, and bottom edge of the lining. Pin in place.

Now, sew across the straight line where all three pieces meet. Do not continue to sew up the neck line. Just baste the shirred middle piece in place for now.

After you have finished one side, baste the other side of the bodice middle in place, repeating the exact same steps, only opposite.

When you are done, fold it right side out – it will look like this in front.

And this in back.

Now let’s put the back on.

Attaching the Bodice Back

Even though you cut out a pattern for the bodice back, you won’t really need it – other than as for a guide. The bodice back is just rectangle – and can easily be adjusted to be either larger or smaller, depending on how you want the dress to fit.

First, you’ll need to trim your remaining shirred fabric so the side edge is straight and perpendicular to the top edge. You can trim the bottom edge if you want now, too – I just left mine as-is.

Now, lay your bodice out with the front facing right side up. Then, lay your shirred fabric, right side down on top of the back edge, matching the top edge of the shirred fabric to the slight angle change in your fabric.

Your shirred fabric is now laying on top of the side piece with the lining underneath. You are going to take the lining piece and bring it all the way over and around the other side of the bodice, and back on top of the shirred fabric.

See how the opposite side pieces are rolled up inside? If you aren’t sure if you placed the fabric correctly, gently fold the piece inside out after you have pinned it where you think it should be – you will be able to see then if it is pinned to the correct section.

Now, baste along the edge, sewing only where all three pieces meet, just like you did with the front edge.

After you have basted one side, fold the bodice right-side out. You will now need to trim the shirred bodice back. You may want to measure it on your little princess before you sew the other side, so that it fits perfectly. Or, just use your pattern as a guide of how wide to trim it.

Repeating the same steps as before, baste the other side into place.

Turn the bodice back right-side out to make sure everybody is in place correctly. Tear off the tissue paper or stabilizer on the front piece. Now, we are going to finish the two seams that run along the neckline and through your basted middle pieces.

Turn one side of the bodice inside-out so the right sides are facing.

Sew or serge along the entire seam.

Do the same to the other side. Turn the bodice right-side out again.

Hand stitch trim, if using, along the outside seams you just sewed along the neckline.

You did it! Bodice, done. Now – on to the sleeves and skirt.

Skirt

Begin by cutting your skirt pieces. Make sure to use a verylight-weight fabric. I used a “costume satin.” You will be using so much that you don’t want to weigh down your little princess with a heavy dress!

First, you will need to cut out two “A-line” skirt pieces, only – very elongated. You will want the top part (the waist seam) of each piece to be equivalent to the entire waist measurement + 1-inch for seam allowance. So, when both pieces are together, it will be 2x the waist size.

The bottom needs to be 1.5x as long as the waist + 1-inch for seam allowance, so 3x when both pieces are together.

The length of the skirt pieces needs to be 5-6x, yes, five to six times, as long as how long you want the finished skirt to be.

So, your pieces will look something like this…

I was able to cut my pieces out arranged like this on my fabric, because my little princess is so tiny.

If you are making a bigger dress, you may need to arrange them something more similar to this.

Cut out your pieces, then sew or serge along the lengths with right sides facing. Hem the bottom. I just used a three-thread serge stitch – you won’t see the bottom hem in the end, it just needs to be prevented from fraying. Then, press each side into fourths.

Set your machine to it’s longest stitch length. Raise the tension to its highest setting as well. These settings should result in a little bit of instant gathering (and instant fun!). Stitch along each pressed edge and seam. You should end up with something like this. Don’t worry if yours doesn’t bunch as much, we are going to pull in the gathers even more in just a sec.

Cut out 8 strips of fabric equivalent to your skirt length + ½ inch, by about one inch. Serge or zigzag the edges so they will not fray.

Now, use these strips as a guide to gather your skirt to the correct length. These strips will also stabilize the gathers in place.

Turn your skirt inside out. Pull the bottom thread of each line of stitching to help gather the skirt even more. Arrange the gathers along the strips of fabric, turning the bottom hem over the strip about ½ inch. Keep the top ½ inch of the skirt gather-free.

Turn the skirt right-side out. Stitch along each of the gathered hem lines, easing the ruffles under the foot of the machine. Remember, your needles are underneath – be careful!

After all of your ruffles have been stitched in place, your skirt will look more like this.

Using the same method as in the Cinderella dress, gather the top of the skirt with elastic.

– Sorry, going back to Cinderella photos for just a sec –

Cut a piece of ¼-inch elastic to the same size as the waist of your bodice, adding 1-inch for overlap. Zig-zag stitch the elastic closed, and pin in eighths.

Pin the top of the skirt in eighths as well. Match up the elastic pins and the skirt pins to distribute the elastic evenly. (For this dress – just use the 8 gather seams as reference for the skirt pins)

Carefully and slowly, stitch the elastic to the skirt by stretching it out as you sew, in order to align it with the pins. Since you will be stretching the elastic as you sew it – use a straight stitch. (If you are sewing elastic while NOT stretched, always use a zig-zag stitch.)

– Okay, back to yellow –

Now, we will stitch the bodice to the skirt.

Turn the skirt inside out, and then tuck the bodice inside (upside down, so that the waist seams meet), so that the right sides are facing. Because the elastic was cut to fit the bodice, it should line up pretty nicely. Align the gather seams so one is placed in the directly in the middle of both the front and back, and on the sides.

Pin the skirt to the bodice by first pinning the front and back shirred sections, and then the sides. If you find yourself needing to stretch the elastic a bit to fit correctly, make sure you do it on the sides, not over the shirring. You want to make sure the shirred sections have as much stretch as possible to them.

Stitch the skirt to the bodice with a straight stitch directly on top of the elastic. When you get to the shirred sections, either switch to a zig-zag stitch, or make sure to stretch out the elastic as you go.

Do a mini victory dance, and pop open a Diet Coke. You’re SO close!

Now – take a piece of decorative fabric (I used a shiny gold) to drape across the dress. I used a 9 inch strip by about 38 inches long. Make sure that it is plenty long enough to make it around the dress.

Fold the strip in half, length-wise with right sides facing. Sew or serge along the length of the strip. Turn over so you have a long “snake” of fabric.

With the seam side down, gather (by hand, or use your machine) the strip in the very center until it is about 1-2 inches wide. Pin about 1/3 of the way down the skirt on top of the front center gather and stitch into place.

Continue to do this with each gather, lowering the placement of the ruffle about an inch or so each time, so that the fabric tapers downward toward the back. The gathers are pretty forgiving, so don’t worry too much about exact placement – just do what looks right. When you get to the last gather, sew the two ends together so that the seam will face toward the dress.

Gather just like you did before, and sew into place.

Now – we just need to hem the sleeves, and add the fabric that drapes over the shoulders.

Hemmed Sleeves

Cut two strips bias tape (cut on the diagonal) 1 3/4 inches wide and long enough to wrap around the armhole of the bodice.

Cut the end at a diagonal, and press the end up about ¼ inch.

Then press in half.

With the dress right-side out, align the end of the bias tape to the bottom of the armhole. Pin the bias tape in place around the entire edge, with the bias tape open and the fold coming toward you.

Continue to wrap the bias tape around, overlapping the beginning of the seam. Trim the bias tape to overlap about one-inch.

Sew a straight-stitch with about ¼ inch seam allowance around the entire edge. You should then have something that looks like this…

Now, gently iron the raw edge of the bias tape under so that it meets with the existing ironed edge. (You could also do this before even sewing it on.)

Fold the bias tape along the pressed edges and pin in place. Using a ladder stitch, hand stitch the hem closed.

Finishing Touches

To make the fabric that drapes over the shoulders – take a long strip of sheer fabric about 12 inches wide (give or take) and long enough to wrap around Belle’s shoulders. You will also need a flower or some type of pendant for the middle. I made a simple rolled rose with the extra fabric I had leftover from the dress. (Search Pinterest for DIY fabric flowers – there are tons of great ideas!)

First, you will need to hem the edge of the sheer fabric. I was able to just singe mine with a candle flame.

Hand-gather the end of the fabric with a needle and thread, and trim the edges. Using a hot glue gun, glue the end of the fabric to the back of your flower with a small drop of glue.

This piece of fabric is intended to wrap around Belle, draping over her shoulders. Double check the length on your princess if possible – it may be hard to tell how loose or tight it should be with just a measurement.

Trim the fabric at the correct length, gather, and glue onto the back of the flower.

I added a small circle of fabric on top of the two gathered ends just to clean it up a little, and to give a flat back to the rose. Either way – finish with a small line of glue and a jewelry pin. I decided to make this part removable just in case in was bothersome, or if the dress needed to be washed.

After Belle puts her dress on, just pin the rose to the front center of her dress, and drape the fabric over her shoulders.

And that’s it! You’re Belle dress is done. Look forward to many hugs and kisses from your little Belle, she will love be in love with her new princess dress!

Cinderella Princess Dress – Costume Pattern and Tutorial

October 20, 2012 by homemadetoast 32 Comments

The last few years, Halloween has kind of passed by. I would dress the girls up, and last year we even took them trick-or-treating to a few houses – but they didn’t really get it. When I explained to Kyah what Halloween was a few months ago, without any hesitation – she decided that she wanted to be Cinderella.

I knew I wanted to make a dress for her – because I wanted something that would out stand all of the dancing, twirling, and playing that it would endure. I knew that the Costco version, that she had previously been dying over, just wouldn’t last through the season.

Finally, I sat down and came up with an idea that would be comfortable and fun – and make my little princess feel just like Cinderella. The shirred bodice does just that – it adds so much flexibility and stretch that will play with her, even grow with her – and is sturdy, yet elegant enough, to be fit for Cinderella.

Want to make a Belle dress too?

Bodice Pattern

First, we need to create our bodice pattern. You can use mine, adjusting to the size you will need, or create your own.

To create your own – find a shirt, or dress that fits your princess well. Lay it out on a piece of paper – and mark at these six points.

Then, connect the dots – and fold at the two center points.

Fold in half and cut around the pattern. Cut two pattern pieces – one for the front, one for the back.

Cut along the vertical and diagonal lines, like this.

Cut along both of the lines.

Pattern done. Now, let’s start sewing.

Bodice Sides

Use your pattern to cut out the bodice pieces. You will need two pieces (opposite of each other) of both your front and lining fabric, so – 4 pieces total. I used the same fabric for both.

If you created your own pattern, place the side “seams” together to create one piece, like this – and cut about ¼-½ inch outside for seam allowance.

If you are using my pattern, the seam allowance has already been added – just cut on the dotted line. (The outside line for Cinderella dress, inside line for Belle)

Now – finally time to turn on the machine! With right sides facing, fold each piece in half and stitch or serge the at the shoulder seam.

Shirring

For example, for the 2T pattern – the pieces are about 8.5 inches high, and 9 inches wide side-by-side. So, I cut a piece of fabric 10.5 inches high, and 27 inches wide.

Start by hemming the fabric across its length. I serged the edge, but you could also use a zig-zag stitch.

Sew the second row with the hemmed edge folded out, just so you don’t accidentally stitch over it again, about 1/4 – 1/3 inch under the first row.

Here’s what the back will look like after the second row.

Attaching the Bodice Front

Take one side – doesn’t matter which, and lay out your lining fabric right side up. Place your middle bodice section along the front edge (the diagonal side) right side up, lining up the edges.

Then, take your matching front piece, and lay it right side down on top of both pieces, matching up the diagonal edge, and bottom edge of the lining. Pin in place.

Now, sew across the straight line where all three pieces meet. Do not continue to sew up the neck line. Just baste the shirred middle piece in place for now.

After you have finished one side, baste the other side of the bodice middle in place, repeating the exact same steps, only opposite.

When you are done, fold it right side out – it will look like this in front.

And this in back.

Now let’s put the back on.

Attaching the Bodice Back

Now, baste along the edge, sewing only where all three pieces meet, just like you did with the front edge.

Repeating the same steps as before, baste the other side into place.

Turn one side of the bodice inside-out so the right sides are facing.

Sew or serge along the entire seam.

Do the same to the other side. Turn the bodice right-side out again.

Hand stitch trim, if using, along the outside seams you just sewed along the neckline.

You did it! Bodice, done. Now – on to the sleeves and skirt.

Sleeves

First, you will need to cut two sleeve pieces – I used a shiny white fabric. Adjust this pattern so that half of the sleeve width is equal to approximately the circumference of bodice armhole. (Or the entire, unfolded sleeve is equal to twice the circumference.) Don’t get too technical here, just use your best guess. You will be gathering the sleeve quite a bit so you’ll never know the difference.

After you have cut both sleeve pieces, fold each in half, right sides together, and sew or serge along the inner edge.

Now, you are going to sew a stitch, on your machine’s longest setting, along the curved edge of the sleeve, starting and stopping about an inch away from the seam you just made. Make sure you leave a good tail of thread before and after the stitch. Dang it, forgot to take a picture – I hope this explains it…

Pull the bottom thread to gather the sleeve. With the bodice inside out, fit the gathered edge of the sleeve into the armhole, making sure the seam lines up with the bottom of the armhole, and with right sides facing. Gather and pin into place, focusing the gathering at the top half of the sleeve.

Sew or serge the seam into place. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Now, press the straight edge of the sleeve just less than ½-inch under, then another ½-inch, to create a double-folded hem. Sew along the hem with about a 3/8-inch seam allowance, starting and stopping just before the inner seam in order to leave a small gap to insert elastic.

Measure the circumference of your princess’ arm. Add 1-2 inches for comfort, and mark the length on ¼-inch elastic. Insert the elastic into the double-fold hem, pinning the end at the spot you just marked (making sure it is not twisted inside).

Sew the ends of the elastic together using a zig-zag stitch, with about 1-inch overlap. Trim the long end of the elastic.

Insert the entire elastic loop back into the double-fold hem, and stitch the gap of the hem closed. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Who-hoo! So close! Now, we just need to add the skirt.

Skirt

For Cinderella’s skirt, you will want three layers – lining, tulle, and a top layer (I used a sparkly tulle).

Here are the sizes that you need to cut, each are simple rectangles:

Lining: length of skirt + 2 inches (for hem and seam allowance) by 2x waist size.

Tulle: Length of skirt + ½ inch (for seam allowance) by 10-20 times waist size, depending on how full you want the skirt to be (I used 3 pieces of 18.5 inch (length of my skirt + seam allowance) by 3 yards, almost 18x the waist size – you can never have too much tulle!)

Top: Length of skirt + 1 inch for hem and seam allowance by3x waist size.

Whew! After you have all of the fabric cut, hem the bottom of any fabric that may fray. I stitched a double-fold hem on my lining, and a serged a rolled hem on my top layer. The tulle is fine left with a raw edge. Your hem will just depend on what you are using. Adjust your lengths as necessary.

With right sides together, sew along the length (the side seams) of both lining and then top layer to create two “tubes.”

Now its time to gather the tulle. My favorite way to do this is on my serger, running a different color of thread through my right needle. Serge along the top edge. Then, pull the colored thread to gather – as simple as that. You could also do this with a long straight stitch on your sewing machine. Same concept – I just like having the pretty edges to go along with!

You can sew/serge each piece individually to gather, or stagger each layer so the ends stop and start and different places through the skirt. I staggered mine.

Set out your lining “tube” right side out. Now, adjust and pin your gathered tulle so that it lays fairly evenly along the outside of the lining. Just eyeball it.

Using the same method, gather the top layer of your skirt and pin over top of the tulle.

Cut a piece of ¼-inch elastic to the same size as the waist of your bodice, adding 1-inch for overlap. Zig-zag stitch the elastic closed, and pin in eighths.

Pin the top of the three-layered skirt in eighths as well. Match up the elastic pins and the skirt pins to distribute the elastic evenly.

Carefully and slowly, stitch the elastic to the skirt by stretching it out as you sew, in order to align it with the pins. Since you will be stretching the elastic as you sew it – use a straight stitch. (If you are sewing elastic while NOT stretched, always use a zig-zag stitch.)

I think I got a little too excited that I was almost done with the dress at this point, that I forgot to take a picture of this step. Basically, your end result will be a skirt gathered at the top with elastic. Easy enough. Set the skirt aside for now.

Now – to make the hip poofs. Yup, that’s what we’re calling them.

Hip Poofs

Cut out two circles – mine were 23 inches in diameter, mostly because – that’s how much fabric I had. Make them bigger or smaller depending on the dress size and your preference.

Also, cut out two circles (the same size) of stiff tulle – this will give the hip poofs their shape. You could also line the circles with interfacing instead for the same effect.

Fold the fabric and tulle in half, with the tulle inside and right side of the fabric facing out. Pin in place.

Sew or serge along the curved edge, to hold the layers in place.

Just under that stitch, hand stitch across the curve going front to back about every ½ inch.

Pulling one side of the string of the hand stitch you just made, and holding on to the other side, gather the edge up and pin it into place along the bodice sides. The poof should start and stop before it reaches the shirred fabric. Pin like crazy to keep your gathers under control.

Carefully sew the poof into place. Make sure to use a heavy-duty needle and take your time. Repeat with the other side.

Ok. This is getting exciting. Almost done!

Attaching the Skirt

Flip the poofs upward so that they are pointed up and encasing the bodice. Turn the skirt inside out , and then tuck the bodice and poofs inside (upside down, so that the waist seams meet), so that the right sides are facing. Because the elastic was cut to fit the bodice, it should line up pretty nicely. Align the seam of the top layer of the skirt to either the side or back of the dress.

At this point, the sides will be super thick – hand baste them into place, don’t even try to use pins.

Very, very carefully – and with a (super) heavy duty needle, stitch the skirt to the bodice with a straight stitch directly on top of the elastic. When you get to the shirred sections, either switch to a zig-zag stitch, or make sure to stretch out the elastic as you go.

DO NOT attempt to serge this seam. Depending on the strength of your sewing machine and quality of your needle, you may even need to just hand stitch the entire seam in place. If your sewing machine isn’t cooperating, grab a needle and thread.

Bippity-boppity-boo! You’re Cinderella dress is done. Go show your little princess and watch her eyes light up. It will make all your hard work so worth it!

The Best Playdough Ever

May 22, 2012 by homemadetoast Leave a Comment

My girls love playdough, and the store-bought kind just doesn’t seem worth the price for the (ab)use it gets in our home. I have tried a handful of playdough recipes, the classic salt dough and a few others that I had found on Pinterest. This recipe, by far, is the best – way better than store-bought playdough. It is soft and smooth, and even leaves your hands more moisturized, rather than dried out like many other doughs do. It does not dry out easily, and will keep for months and months!

I found this version on the blog adelynSTONE, check out her post for great step-by-step instructions. I have seriously made at least 30 batches of this stuff- it’s wonderful! You probably have most, if not all of the ingredients in your cupboard right now. Each batch takes just over 5 minutes – start to finish – to make.

The Best Playdough Ever

Ingredients:
1 cup water
1 cup flour
1/4 cup salt
1 Tablespoon oil (any type – I have used both vegetable and olive oil)
2 teaspoons cream of tartar
food coloring or a kool-aid packet

Directions:
1. Combine all ingredients in a large sauce pan.
2. Stir the dough constantly over medium heat, until the dough comes together into one ball.
3. Knead a few times for uniform consistency.

A few tips & tricks I learned along the way:

I initially bought a bunch of kool-aid packets to color the playdough with, thinking that they would add a fun scent. While you can smell the flavors, it is very very subtle, and personally it didn’t really seem worth the 10-cent investment for each batch. I would suggest just using regular food coloring, and adding in a drop or two of essential oil to create a scent, rather than the kool-aid. But, if you have extra packets laying around – they do fine at adding fun color to the dough!

The first few times I made this playdough, I whisked together all of the ingredients until no flour clumps remained before bringing it to heat on the stove. Later, I tried just stirring everything together as it was heating – I didn’t notice any difference. The clumps made their way out of the dough just fine as it thickened up.

Your dough will become slightly darker color once it is done, then before.

If you are making multiple batches, no need to clean out the pan each time – just start with the lightest color, and work your way through your palette.

I would not suggest making more than a double-batch at a time – it will take much longer to cook, and will be very hard to stir!